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She Who stared down the Nebraska bison steak & egg, which came out topped not only with a poached eg


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When the renovated President Hotel reopened under the Hilton flag in 2006, its Drum Room lounge and restaurant looked pretty good, but the restaurant operation never really caught fire. Now, the dining room has been made over once more. Providence, New American Kitchen has a pleasant, all-American vibe, and the results seem much more like a hit.
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Joshua Bailey never got to see the end of Sunday s Super Bowl. The party he was hosting ended in calamity, with a friend dead and the criminal justice system confirming what Bailey had predicted when he phoned 911. I m going to jail, he told the dispatcher.
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Hotel restaurants tend to balance their multiple missions at some medium point on the spectrum, and those that strive to stand out as fine dining destinations know they have to offer something beyond the modest expectations of function-goers, travelers and conventioneers.
When the renovated historic President Hotel reopened under the Hilton flag in 2006, its Drum Room lounge and restaurant looked bargain european river cruises pretty good, but the restaurant operation never really caught fire. Now, the dining room has been made over once more. It s got a pleasant, all-American vibe, and the results seem much more like a hit.
The restaurant Providence, New American Kitchen evokes a setting of warmth, with walls covered by wooden planks reclaimed from Missouri and Kansas barns. Stacked limestone accents, thick wooden beams, red leatherish benches and arts-and-crafts bargain european river cruises style lighting fixtures add to a feeling of Midwestern calm.
The place does feel good. General manager Rick Brook, a veteran of Morton s and the Hereford House, and executive chef Eric Carter, who has worked at the American Restaurant and elsewhere, have developed an attractive culinary formula based on both comfort and surprise. A significant key to their success: Their portfolio bargain european river cruises does not include catering and room service, bargain european river cruises so their focus is strictly on making Providence click.
That may also explain bargain european river cruises why the menu prices at Providence seem reasonable and lower than your typically marked-up hotel rates. Numerous entrees are available for under $20, and the dinner menu includes only two dishes that go beyond $30 beef tenderloin with lobster ($32) and a dry aged Kansas City strip ($38.50).
Lunch and dinner menus are built around a variety of homespun bargain european river cruises tastes and standard fare given contemporary treatments a pan-seared rainbow trout comes with small discs of lobster sausage and a bacon broth; a dish of short ribs is braised in Boulevard Brewing Co. s Bully Porter. The restaurant aims for as many locally sourced ingredients as possible, Brook said.
At lunch one day, my vegetarian friend, The Mensch, went straight for the most classic of comfort foods: a velvety tomato bisque, with little pools of oil drizzled like paint on the surface, and a grilled cheese sandwich. The latter blended three white cheeses Gruyere, white cheddar and a regionally made St. Andr oozing between two hearty slices of white bread.
bargain european river cruises My lunch that day (a Restaurant Week special) was pretty fine, too: a cup of that simple tomato bisque and a bowl of braised pork cheeks four tender and savory pieces served over a white bean ragout.
We d hoped to start our meal with bison carpaccio, a nod to regionalism if there ever was one, but we were disappointed to learn the kitchen had just run out. We aimed instead for some Latinized tastes, ordering bargain european river cruises ahi tuna tacos and a roasted vegetable tamale.
Carter gives the tacos a typically inventive treatment by making his crispy shell from an Asian-style scallion pancake. A light and creamy bargain european river cruises dollop of guacamole and a tangy slaw sat alongside the three tacos, adding up to an excellent dish with multiple layers of flavor and texture. The steamed corn tamale it s normally a veggie entree, but we shared it as an appetizer was also light and flavorful, enhanced by roasted mushrooms and a tomatillo sauce.
Among other entrees, a Scottish salmon came in a shallow bowl with mussels and shrimp, all served over a medley of orzo, fennel and grape tomatoes. The salmon really bargain european river cruises Scottish, not farmed Atlantic, Carter told me was cooked a shade too firm for our tastes. It s not quite perfect, said our friend, Graphic Girl, but overall the dish was quite satisfying and impressive.
I ordered the Providence cut filet, a 6-ounce cut of steak that proved to be tender, bargain european river cruises but surprisingly a little bland. I craved some salt, which helped perk up the remaining bites. On the side were nicely al dente green beans and a rough-cut of mashed potatoes, by which I mean the pureed spuds were mixed with skins and some larger pieces bargain european river cruises of unmashed fingerlings.
She Who stared down the Nebraska bison steak & egg, which came out topped not only with a poached egg but also with a three-inch crown of lightly breaded and fried onion ring. The hanger cut was lean and tender, and a hash of root vegetables rounded out this substantial and eye-opening dish.
Desserts are equally bargain european river cruises stylish and seductive. We were taken with the carrot cake and its perfectly coiffed mascarpone frosting and by the ricotta doughnuts three on the plate served with small, spreadable mounds of key lime and white chocolate.
The adjacent Drum Room bar got less of a redo than the restaurant, but its new woody and sophisticated finish makes it a far more attractive and cozy spot than before. With very few locally bred operations in the Power & Light District just a block a way, Providence and the Hilton bargain european river cruises President have now made a legitimate claim to your time and culinary attention in the neighborhood. From its rosemary-scented dinner rolls to the sweet kiss of dessert, we found it to be a genuine expression of Midwestern values. Maybe not heavenly, as its name suggests, but authentically down to earth.
Code of ethics: Starred reviews are written after a minimum of two visits to a restaurant. When required, reservations are made in a name other than the reviewer s. The Star pays for reviewer bargain european river cruises s meals.
Full bar and beer service; the current winter menu includes four craft cocktails, including presidential nods to Harry Truman (the Truman-hattan, based on Old Grand Dad Whiskey; $10) and Gerald Ford ( President Ford s Favorite ), made with Missouri s own Pinckney Gin, a house-made tonic, lemon juice and fresh blackberries ($8.50). The wine list is relatively compact and modestly chosen with glass prices ranging from $6 to $12. I was happy with the Hy-brid Petite Sirah, an earth-heavy but nicely balanced red ($8 glass), which carried itself well against such varied dishes bargain european river cruises as the tuna tacos and steak. Bottles range from a Saint M Riesling ($26) to a Chimney Rock SLD Cabernet Sauvignon ($115).

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